The grand Adamesque interior of Malvern Town Hall was almost transformed into a thumping club last night as Fashion Collections 3 – Renegades, presented by the City of Stonnington, hit the runway. After a rocking song from Lele and two kilted dancers, the show that was billed as “hot hot hot” opened with a bespectacled model wearing a beige suit, carrying an attaché case. The rebellion, it seems, will be led by smartly dressed tax accountants.
From Britten’s menswear is razor sharp, both in its cut and it versatility. Their version of the trench coat is duster light, and the details across the whole collection are wonderfully subtle: fly-fronted shirts, cummerbund-waisted pants, a scarf made from long strands of black string. Fabrics are kept lightweight so that layering doesn’t become bulk. There’s a discipline in their work that I’d expect to find only in much more experienced designers, and I can’t wait to see what direction they will take. Actually, don’t wait: wear them now.
The designers of the Brisbane-based Vanguard were true to their name. They used a bold black-and-white print reminiscent of Navajo weavings but with the strict mathematical precision of a computer-generated image. It worked across sweats, knits and pants. Their “Heartbeat” shirt, jeans panelled in different denims and some useful jackets added up to a streetwise collection of casual pieces with a detailed edge. Also noteworthy: great shoes from emerging footwear designer Shay Alexander.
Rufus Green fits somewhere between From Britten and Vanguard, marrying the suit and the street to great effect. His hooded suit jacket is an outstanding piece; in fact, the collection includes lots of hoods in different sizes and fabrics. A hood for every mood, perhaps. He has a great line of printed tees that are a cut above the everyday, shirts tailored with a narrow silhouette and jackets that you could wear to the office and head straight out the door to go play in your band. Understated, sophisticated and very cool.
Also on show: Twitchet & Tonge and Luella showed womenswear, while Chocolate City and Stevie whipped up a storm with clubwear and some raunchy choreography.
Entry by Paul Hayes, http://kollektor.com.au. You can follow Paul on Twitter throughout the Festival at @kollektorLMFF
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